![]() That M1 stock never would have been repaired by the military, it would have been thrown out. I do my best to hide the repairs so that they are not seen or very little is seen. ![]() The technique that I use to repair stocks, is what I call Blind Repair work. It has a lot to do with how long the stock has been cracked and how much dirt and grime has gotten into it. ![]() I've been at this for over 23 years and one thing that I will tell you, not all cracks can be pulled back together rendering it invisible. This is a big factor in how your repair should be done.Įarlthegoat2 Sorry that you were unimpressed with the repairs on the M1 Carbine wrist repair. You will be subjecting your repair to recoil. Glues may be fine for some things, but stocks are a little different. Most glues stay a little soft and others dry too hard. Glue sticks to things very good, but just doesn't stick to itself very good. Here is the reason that glues don't work that good. Once this is cured, dress it up and your done. Apply a little more resin on top of the cloth. Wet the are with the resin and put the cloth in place. Cut a small strip of fiberglass colth to fit the area. one hour, use a dremel tool to remove some wood from inside the handguard. You will need to use Acraglas or Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy (clear with 30 min set time) Glues are nice, but I have had to repair many stocks that had glue repairs that have failed.įirst apply the resin to the area from the inside then flex the crack to work the resin into it. This is very important due to the fact that no repair will hold for long if there is any oil in the area.Īlso, the handguard is made of Elm and Elm just loves to soak up oil. If done right it will never give you trouble again.įirst you will need to clean the cosmoline from the area. I would not use the pins on this area though as there is just not enough meat to play with in that area of Mausers stock. That crack is in a less critical area so the brittleness of Hot Stuff will not come into play. Both methods will work whether you use Acraglas or Hot Stuff. Candymans methods leave no doubt about their structural integrity. Plus it pulls the separation back together in such a way as to use the woods own structure to add the necessary toughness as opposed to relying on adhesive alone. Since it was a government war relic the brass screws could have been used and you could have said it was repaired at the arsenal that way since this was a common method. Yes no screws were needed but the repair did not pull the crack back together rendering it invisible. I was however unimpressed with the repair done on the wrist of the M1 carbine stock. It is just formulated differently.Īs to the suggestion bdc1775 to use the information at Surplusrifles, I would say there is nothing wrong with Candymans techniques. However I am in agreement that Hot Stuff has the best tendency to get into the tightest spaces. Thinner epoxies like standard Acraglas can get down into pretty tight spaces since they do not cure so fast they have time to travel by gravity pretty powerfully.
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